Powering Your House With an EV: Testing the Anker SOLIX E10 Portable Whole-Home Backup

Powering Your House With an EV: Testing the Anker SOLIX E10 Portable Whole-Home Backup

With assistance from Jeff Adams. You can checkout his YouTube channel Optimal Solar Roofing to take this to the next level. He also has informative posts on the Silverado EV Forum

What if a blackout could be solved without hauling fuel, dealing with generator noise, or committing to a permanent (and expensive) home battery installation? That’s the promise behind a portable, vehicle-to-home style setup: use an EV to recharge a whole-home backup battery system, then power your household through a transfer switch.

In this write-up, I break down what a “portable vehicle-to-home backup” really means, what the Anker SOLIX E10 system can do, what it can’t (based on hands-on testing), and who it’s best for.

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The homeowner backup problem: gas generators and fixed home batteries

Most people end up in one of three buckets for backup power:

1) Gas generators

  • Fuel dependence. You refuel during extended outages, or you rely on someone else to bring fuel.
  • Noise. Neighbors tend not to love the sound, and that noise also creates an “everybody knows” signal for backup power.
  • Limited runtime. When fuel runs low, your backup plan runs out.

2) Fixed home battery systems (like Powerwalls and competitors)

  • High installed cost. Many setups land around $20,000 to $40,000+ after hardware and installation.
  • Not always practical for renters. Installation often requires electrical work you may not be allowed to do (or that you may not want to pay for in a rental).
  • Long commitment. If you move, you typically do not take the battery system with you.

3) Vehicle-to-home (V2H) systems

These aim to use an EV as the energy source instead of gas. Some ecosystems exist through major automakers and partners, but they come with their own tradeoffs:

  • Hardware and installation costs can be significant.
  • Still not always movable. Some approaches are tied to home electrical modifications.
  • Complex permitting and labor can add cost even when panels and wiring look “easy.”

The Anker SOLIX E10 approach: portable whole-home backup

The system tested here is the Anker SOLIX E10 portable whole-home backup, paired with:

The key idea is portability. The E10 setup is designed to come apart into a few major pieces. In a move, the system can be reinstalled at a new property using the same “meter collar + transfer” concept, instead of becoming sunk cost into a specific house.

What the system is (and the specs that matter)

In the tested configuration, the practical numbers were:

  • Battery storage: 12 kWh (from two battery modules in this setup)
  • Power output: up to 10,000 running watts with a 32A continuous backup rating (as described for this configuration)
  • System size: modular battery modules plus an inverter unit

Pricing in the tested scenario:

  • Approx. $8,000 for the E10 system itself
  • Approx. $2,500 for installation of the meter collar transfer switch (GenerLink)

So the ballpark for the backup capability shown here was roughly $10,000, not counting the EV you already own.  Possibly a bit less when Anker runs sales promotions so keep an eye out for deals.

How it connects to your home: the meter collar transfer switch

This is the part that makes “portable whole-home backup” possible. Instead of hard-wiring the system permanently into your panel for years, you use a transfer approach designed to work with the meter collar.

  • The system detects utility power status.
  • When utility power goes down, it can switch over to the E10 supply.
  • When utility power returns, it restores utility power.

And because the meter collar hardware is not permanently “buried” into the house wiring, it can be removed and reused when you move, as long as a new installation is performed appropriately at the new location.

Charging and pass-through tests: EV to E10 to EV and powering loads

The most interesting question was whether the E10 could do real-world things during an outage:

  • Use the EV to recharge the E10
  • Power household loads at the same time
  • Allow “pass-through” behavior where charging can continue even while the system is feeding power out

EV to E10 (Silverado EV charging test with 240V input)

With the EV connected to the E10’s generator input, the system successfully charged the battery. During testing, it behaved as expected, including on-the-fly changes when charging loads changed.

EV input charging while charging another EV (pass-through behavior)

One challenge with any backup system is how it handles limits. In testing, the E10 accepts only up to a certain charge input current from the EV or generator when using that AC generator input path.  In our testing it appeared to be limited to 20 amps (4800 watts) but I later learned that I need to adjust the generator running wattage in the Anker app under Settings>AC input Setting .  Once I adjusted it to match the max power output of the Silverado EV (7200 watts) I was able to move the slider higher past the 4800 watt limit.

When an EV charger load was added, the system displayed a clear “load exceeds available generator power” scenario. The result was:

  • The active EV charging remained unchanged (24 amps)
  • No errors or charging interrupts
  • Instead, it drew what it could from the EV and balanced the rest through the E10 battery

So the takeaway is important: the E10 acts like a buffer. If your combined load and charging draw is higher than the EV can supply through the input path, the E10 battery makes up the difference as needed from its batteries.

Power-failure-style behavior: what happens when input power drops?

A key “blackout simulation” was cutting the power transfer and watching whether the load stayed alive. The system threw an expected under-voltage fault when the EV input was interrupted, but the charging continued without the entire setup shutting down or throwing an error on the EVSE. That’s what you want in a real outage: faults should not turn into a hard stop for essential loads.

120V charging and load test: Rivian R1S vs Silverado EV

Rivian outlet test (limited by inverter/GFCI behavior)

Testing the Rivian outlet powering the E10 presented issues. The Rivian did not behave well with the E10 input. Symptoms like fans not starting (and immediate shutdown behavior) pointed to an incompatibility between the power source inverter behavior and the E10 input side.

The practical conclusion from the testing was simple:

  • Rivian outlet power for this purpose was not a reliable match in this scenario.

Silverado EV 120V test (works at up to full 1.8 kW)

When using the Silverado EV on 120V output into the E10’s 120V charging input path, the system performed better. The measured behavior aligned with the reality that 120V pathways are power-limited compared to 240V.

The tested results suggested that:

  • 120V input at the E10 is capped at a lower rate (roughly in the 1.8 kW range in this setup)
  • At those levels, the Silverado EV handled the load and recharging as expected

The 240V AC input limit: 

One of the biggest limitations discovered was the EV-to-E10 charging input cap when using the AC generator input configuration. 

In the tested configuration, the E10 would only accept about 20 amps from the EV at 240V (about a 4.8 kW class input power).

Why that matters:

  • If you rely on EV charging to refill the E10 while also powering lots of house loads, you can drain the E10 faster than the EV can recharge it.
  • The system will still work, but runtime becomes a balancing act between your household draw and your charging replenishment rate.

The offset strategy is straightforward: in a long outage, reduce load and let the EV slowly refill the E10.

IMPORTANT update on input capability

There is a correction relevant to above mentioned 240V AC input limits. The E10’s AC input capabilities can be configured, and the system is capable of higher acceptance under the right app settings.

AC input is NOT limited to 4800W in all configurations. It can accept up to 9600W depending on configuration in the app under:

  • AC Input Settings → 240V Portable Generator

You simply need to change the "Running Wattage" to match your AC power source.  In the case of our Silverado EV that's 7200W.  This means the testing scenario below is useful as a “real-world example,” but input capability may vary by configuration. 

For safety, we don't recommend exceeding 80% of the generator load rating.  To cacluate this, you can multiply the running wattage by 0.8.  In the case of the Silverado EV, 7200*0.8=5760W.  When  you change the running wattage on the E10, it will automatically set the AC Input limit to 80% of the running wattage for you.

What can this actually power during an outage?

The tested home had both a main panel in the garage rated for 200 amps and a basement subpanel. The basement subpanel was fed through a 90 amp breaker.

A big reason this setup mattered is that a regular transfer switch might not have been able to cover everything desired without costly major electrical changes. With the E10 and meter collar transfer approach, the system can support the home without selectively powering only a “tiny critical circuits” list.

Why EV battery backup is powerful (and flexible)

One reason this approach can feel compelling for EV owners is battery capacity.

  • Home batteries might be around 12 to 20 kWh or so in some common setups.
  • Meanwhile, an EV often has 60 to 80 kWh usable or more.
  • In this tested case, the Silverado EV battery has 205 kWh.
  • A Rivian Max battery has around 140 kWh usable (depending on model).

The vision is that you can drive to a place with power, fast charge the truck, return, and keep your household running through a long outage. That is the core “vehicle-to-home” superpower.

Runtime strategy: how to make it last longer

Even with a large EV pack, backup systems still need careful energy management.

  • Minimize loads
  • Use a conservative charging rate to avoid stressing equipment.
  • Avoid running power hungry appliances or devices during a power outage.

The tested transfer switch is a 40A Generlink, so your system’s practical behavior depends on how much current the transfer switch allows.

Who should consider the Anker SOLIX E10 portable setup?

This kind of backup strategy is especially compelling for:

  • EV owners who want a generator alternative
  • Renters who need backup power without permanently altering electrical infrastructure
  • People who move frequently and do not want to buy a fixed home battery they cannot take with them
  • Rural properties with well pumps (since losing power can mean losing water)

It also helps with “load coverage.” Instead of limiting yourself to one or two essential circuits, the goal is to power the household loads you need within the system’s limits.

Downsides to know before buying

No backup plan is perfect. Here are the tradeoffs highlighted by the testing and the overall system design.

Not the cheapest option

  • Portable systems cost less than fixed whole-home installations sometimes
  • But they are still meaningful investments (about $10,000 for the tested hardware plus meter collar approach including tax and installation)

EV input limit can constrain recharge speed

If your household draw is high and your EV charging input path is capped, the E10 battery can drain. That is solvable with load management, but it’s a real consideration.

Electrical work and permitting may still be required

If you choose the smart inlet box approach or certain configurations, you may still need:

  • An electrician
  • Permits and inspection
  • Code-compliant installation for safety and reliability

The meter collar can be installed by your utility, but it still requires permitting and inspection in most jurisdictions.  In our case, we needed to hire an electrician to submit for permitting and coordinate the installation of the meter collar.

Final verdict: is this a true EV-to-home backup?

The big win is that this system is not “just a battery.” It is closer to a portable vehicle-to-home whole-home backup framework using:

In practical terms, it can provide whole-home backup value with a plan for mobility if you relocate. The main limitations revolve around input power limits and real-world compatibility between EV outlet/inverter behavior and the E10 input.

If your priorities are portability, reducing generator dependence, and keeping critical home functions running during outages, the Anker SOLIX E10 approach is worth serious consideration, especially for EV owners.

System checklist: questions to ask before committing

  • How much of your home is electric? Heating, water heating, and cooking can dominate power usage.
  • Do you need backup for a well pump? If water depends on power, backup becomes urgent.
  • What is your EV’s likely output and your preferred charging method? 120V and 240V pathways behave differently.
  • What transfer setup makes sense for your property and code requirements?
  • How will you manage runtime? Plan for load reduction and consider charging strategies during extended outages.

If you’re building a backup plan and want something that can move with you, a portable EV-to-home system like the Anker SOLIX E10 setup is a compelling middle ground between cheap generators and expensive fixed battery installs.

Special Note:  Anker does not officially support recharging the E10 from an EV source.  This is provided for informational purposes only.  You should always consult with a licensed electrician before performing any electrical work.

Hardware List (links open in a new window):

Anker Solix E10
Generlink 40 Amp Meter Collar Xfer Switch


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