⚠️Reminder: Confirm your tire size/type on your door-jamb sticker before buying. Fitment can vary.

Rivian R1S & R1T Tire Guide


The Rivian R1S and Rivian R1T are adventure-focused electric vehicles built for people who want EV efficiency with real outdoor capability. They combine quick acceleration, confident all-weather traction (with available dual, tri, and quad-motor AWD setups), and smart utility features—like the R1T’s Gear Tunnel and the R1S’s flexible three-row-style cargo space. With strong tech, great road-trip comfort, and legit off-road hardware, they’re a top pick for drivers who want an EV that can handle daily life and weekend adventures.
✅This tire guide was created by a car enthusiast of more than 30 years with a passion for electric vehicles.

ℹ️NOTICE: We may earn commissions on select products that you purchase via this website.

Shop Tires (Tire Rack)

What is your use case?

  • 🛣️All-Season & All Purpose

    Provides maximum range, comfort and flexibility for your Rivian R1S or R1T. Best for places that don't experience weather extremes or go off-road. When you want one set of tires to run all year.
    View Options 

  • 🌄All-Terrain & On-Road

    Provides light off-road and all terrain capability but also maintains good on-road performance for your Rivian R1S or R1T. Best for owners who do light off-roading, travel gravel roads frequently, but still need to maintain their on-road manners.
    ℹ️ REDUCED RANGE, SLIGHT INCREASE IN NOISE AND VIBRATION POSSIBLE.
    View Options 

  • 🏁Summer High Performance

    Provides maximum performance on the road or the track for your Rivian R1S or R1T. Best if maximum performance & handling on road are the goals.
    ⚠️ PERFORMANCE TIRES ARE UNSAFE & MAY SUSTAIN DAMAGE AT TEMPS BELOW 50 F.
    ℹ️ REDUCED RANGE & INCREASED HARSHNESS ARE LIKELY
    View Options 

  • 🚙Off-Road & Mud

    Provides greater capability for your Rivian R1S or R1T aimed towards heavier off-road use. Best for vehicle that frequently off-road or traverse muddy or rocky terrain.
    ℹ️REDUCED RANGE, INCREASED ROAD NOISE & VIBRATION LIKELY.
    View Options 

  • 🌨️Snow & Ice

    Provides maximum capability for your Rivian R1S or R1T in areas that see harsh winter conditions.
    ℹ️REDUCED RANGE, ONLY RUN DURING WINTER MONTHS
    View Options 
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Fitment & Sizing

What wheel size should I choose?

Wheel size comes down to how you use your vehicle and what you want most: performance, comfort/range, or off-road capability.

  • Maximum on-road handling & performance: A larger-diameter wheel paired with a summer performance tire gives the sharpest steering response and cornering feel. The shorter sidewall flexes less, which improves precision—but it can ride harsher and is more vulnerable to pothole damage.
  • Maximum comfort, range, and tread life: A smaller-diameter wheel with a quality touring or all-season low rolling resistance (LRR) tire is usually the best match. More sidewall helps absorb bumps and road imperfections, and LRR all-season tires can improve EV efficiency/range while typically offering longer treadwear.
  • Off-road / overlanding: Off-road setups also favor a smaller-diameter wheel because extra sidewall allows you to air down for traction and helps protect the wheel on rocks and rough terrain. Pair it with the right all-terrain (A/T) or mud-terrain (M/T) tire depending on your trails and conditions.

Keep in mind: aggressive off-road tires often trade efficiency for traction. It’s common to see reduced range along with more road noise and vibration compared to highway-focused tires.

How do I confirm my tire size?

You can confirm your tire size using these three checks (in this order):

Driver door-jamb sticker (best source)

  • Open the driver door and look for the “Tire and Loading Information” placard.
  • It lists the factory tire size (example: 275/60R20) and the recommended cold tire pressure.
  • This is the most reliable source because it matches the vehicle’s original wheel/tire specification.

Your current tire sidewall (what’s on the vehicle right now)

  • Look on the tire sidewall for the size string (example: 275/60R20).
  • This confirms what’s currently installed, but it may differ from stock if wheels/tires were changed.
  • Owner’s manual or build/spec sheet (backup)

The owner’s manual is also a great resource that often lists approved tire sizes, sometimes multiple options by trim or wheel package. 

Takeaway: Match the size on your door-jamb sticker unless you know your wheels/tires were changed—then confirm the current size on the sidewall and verify it’s appropriate for your vehicle.

What do the tire size numbers mean (e.g., 275/60R20)?

A tire size like 275/60R20 breaks down into a few parts:

1. 275 = Tire width (in millimeters)

  • This is the width of the tire from sidewall to sidewall.
  • Example: “275” means the tire is about 275 mm wide.

2. 60 = Aspect ratio (sidewall height as a percentage of width)

  • This is how tall the sidewall is compared to the width.
  • “60” means the sidewall height is 60% of 275 mm.
  • Higher number = taller sidewall (more cushion, usually less responsive).
  • Lower number = shorter sidewall (sharper handling, usually less cushion).

3. R = Radial construction

  • “R” means the tire is a radial tire (the modern standard for nearly all passenger vehicles).

4. 20 = Wheel diameter (in inches)

  • This is the size of the wheel the tire fits on.
  • “20” means it mounts on a 20-inch wheel.

Quick example (275/60R20):

  • 275 mm wide
  • Sidewall height is 60% of 275 mm
  • Radial construction
  • Fits a 20-inch wheel

Important note: Tire size alone doesn’t tell the whole story. Also verify the load index, speed rating, and any special ratings (XL, LT, 3PMSF) listed after the size on the tire’s sidewall.

What happens if I change tire diameter (speedometer, range, gearing)?

Changing tire diameter changes how far your vehicle travels with each wheel rotation. That impacts your speedometer/odometer accuracy, performance, and efficiency.

1) Speedometer and odometer accuracy

Larger overall tire diameter: you travel farther per rotation.

  • Your speedometer will usually read LOWER than your actual speed.
  • Your odometer will record FEWER miles than you actually drove.

Smaller overall tire diameter: you travel less per rotation.

  • Your speedometer will usually read HIGHER than your actual speed.
  • Your odometer will record MORE miles than you actually drove.

2) Acceleration and “gearing” feel

Larger diameter = “taller gearing”

  • Slightly slower off-the-line acceleration
  • Lower RPM at a given road speed (for ICE vehicles)
  • Can feel like the vehicle is geared longer

Smaller diameter = “shorter gearing”

  • Quicker acceleration
  • Higher RPM at a given road speed (for ICE vehicles)

3) Range and efficiency (especially important for EVs)

Larger/heavier tires and wheels often reduce efficiency due to:

  • More rotating mass (heavier setup takes more energy to spin up)
  • Higher rolling resistance (depends on tire model)
  • More aerodynamic drag if the tire is wider or more aggressive

Note: A diameter change by itself doesn’t always increase energy use, but in real life, upsizing often comes with heavier/wider tires that can reduce range.

4) Driver-assist systems and calibration

Significant diameter changes can affect:

  • ABS and traction control behavior
  • Speed-based driver aids
  • AWD system behavior (especially if front/rear diameters don’t match)

Some vehicles can be recalibrated for the new tire size; others can’t.

5) Fitment and rubbing risks

Larger diameter can cause rubbing at full lock or over bumps, depending on:

  • Tire width
  • Wheel offset
  • Suspension height/lift/level
  • Fender/liner clearance

Practical guidance:

  • Try to keep overall diameter close to stock (many people target within about 1–3%).
  • If you change tire diameter, verify speedometer accuracy and confirm there’s no rubbing or clearance issues.

Takeaway: Bigger diameter generally makes the speedometer read low, softens acceleration (taller gearing), and can reduce EV range if the new setup is heavier/wider—so keep diameter changes modest and verify fitment.

What is the difference between OEM spec vs “it fits”?

“OEM spec” means the tire meets the manufacturer’s original requirements for your vehicle. “It fits” usually just means the tire can physically mount on the wheel and clear the vehicle—but it may not match the vehicle’s intended performance, safety, or load requirements.

1) OEM spec (recommended / designed-for)

OEM spec tires match key requirements the vehicle was engineered around, such as:

  • Correct size and overall diameter (keeps speedometer, gearing, and driver aids accurate)
  • Proper load index / load range (supports the vehicle’s weight and payload)
  • Appropriate speed rating
  • Handling and stability targets (steering feel, braking, wet traction)
  • Noise/comfort targets
  • Sometimes special OEM markings or tuned versions (common on EVs and performance vehicles)

2) “It fits” (physical compatibility only)

A tire that “fits” typically means:

  • The size can mount on your wheel
  • It clears the suspension/brakes and doesn’t obviously rub at normal ride height

But it may still be a poor choice if:

  • Load rating is too low (safety issue, especially for towing/hauling)
  • Overall diameter is far from stock (speedometer/odometer and system calibration issues)
  • The tire is too wide for the wheel or offset (handling/rubbing problems)
  • The tire’s construction isn’t suited to your use (off-road tire for highway commuting, summer tire in winter temps, etc.)

Why it matters:

  • The vehicle will usually drive best and safest on OEM-equivalent specs.
  • “It fits” can work, but you’re taking responsibility for tradeoffs in range, ride, braking, stability, and component wear.

Takeaway: OEM spec = meets the vehicle’s intended requirements. “It fits” = physically mounts/clears, but may not be the right (or safe) spec for your vehicle and driving needs.

Can I run a different size than stock (plus sizing / minus sizing)?

Yes, but it’s important to understand the tradeoffs and stay within safe limits for fitment, handling, and system calibration.

What “plus sizing” and “minus sizing” mean

Plus sizing: A larger wheel diameter with a lower-profile tire (shorter sidewall), while keeping the overall tire diameter close to stock.


Example: going from an 18" wheel to a 20" wheel, with a tire that has a shorter sidewall so the total height stays similar.


Minus sizing: A smaller wheel diameter with a taller sidewall tire, again keeping overall diameter close to stock.


Often used for winter setups or off-road comfort.

Key rules to follow

1) Keep overall tire diameter close to stock

If overall diameter changes too much, it can affect:

  • Speedometer and odometer accuracy
  • ABS/traction control behavior
  • Range/efficiency (especially on EVs)

A common guideline is to stay within about 1–3% of the stock overall diameter.

2) Match (or exceed) the OEM load and speed ratings

  • This is critical for safety, especially if you tow or carry heavy loads.
  • Never go below the vehicle’s required load rating.

3) Make sure the tire is approved for your wheel width

  • Every tire size has a recommended wheel width range.
  • A tire can “mount” but still be a poor match if the wheel is too narrow or too wide.

4) Watch for clearance and rubbing

Changes in width, offset, and diameter can cause rubbing at:

  • Full steering lock
  • Suspension compression (bumps, driveways)
  • With passengers/cargo

Lift/level kits and aftermarket wheels increase the chance of fitment issues.

5) Consider the real-world tradeoffs

Larger/heavier/wider tires often:

  • Reduce EV range and efficiency
  • Increase road noise (depending on tread)
  • Can affect braking and steering feel


Taller sidewalls (minus sizing) can:

  • Improve ride comfort and pothole protection
  • Improve winter performance (with the right winter tire)
  • Reduce sharp handling response

Best practice

  • Use the driver door-jamb placard as your baseline.

If you’re changing size, use a reputable tire size calculator and verify:

  • Overall diameter
  • Load index
  • Wheel width compatibility
  • Clearance

Takeaway: You can run a different size than stock, but keep overall diameter close to OEM, keep proper load/speed ratings, and confirm wheel compatibility and clearance to avoid rubbing and safety issues.

Tire Types & Use Cases

All-season vs all-weather vs winter tires — what should I choose?

It comes down to your winter conditions and how often you drive in cold temps, snow, or ice.

1) All-season tires

Best for: Mild climates with occasional light snow.

  • Designed as a “do-most-things” tire for dry and wet roads, with decent tread life.
  • They can handle light snow, but they’re not optimized for ice or deep snow.
  • Many all-seasons use rubber compounds that lose grip as temps drop.

Choose all-season if:

  • Your winters are mostly above freezing and roads are usually clear.
  • Snow/ice is occasional and you can avoid driving in storms.
  • You want one set of tires year-round and prioritize long tread life.

2) All-weather tires (the middle ground)

Best for: Four-season driving where winter shows up, but you still want one set year-round.

  • All-weather tires are “all-season-like” tires that are winter-capable.
  • Most are rated with the “3PMSF” symbol (Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake), meaning they meet a snow-traction standard.
  • They’re typically better than all-seasons in snow and cold, but not as strong as true winter tires on ice.

Choose all-weather if:

  • You get regular winter conditions (snow/cold), but not extreme ice storms every week.
  • You want a single year-round set and don’t want seasonal tire swaps.
  • You want improved winter safety without going full winter tire.

3) Winter tires (snow/ice tires)

Best for: Frequent snow/ice, mountain driving, or consistently cold winters.

  • Built with rubber compounds that stay flexible in freezing temps.
  • Tread is designed for maximum traction in snow and significantly better grip on ice.

Tradeoffs: faster wear in warm weather, and handling can feel softer on dry roads.

Choose winter tires if:

  • You drive in snow/ice often, or you can’t “wait it out” when storms hit.
  • You live in a cold climate where temps stay low for months.
  • You drive mountainous routes, rural roads, or areas that aren’t quickly plowed.

Simple decision guide

  • Mostly mild winters + occasional snow: All-season
  • Regular snow/cold but want one set year-round: All-weather (look for 3PMSF)
  • Frequent snow/ice or consistently cold temps: Winter tires (best safety)

Takeaway: If winter is real where you live, all-weather is usually the best “one set” option, while winter tires are the safest choice for frequent snow/ice and sustained freezing temps.

Summer tires in cold weather — how risky is it?

It can be very risky! Summer tires are designed for warm pavement, and their rubber compound stiffens in cold temperatures, which can cause a major loss of grip.

What can happen in cold weather

  • Much longer braking distances (even on dry roads)
  • Reduced traction and stability when accelerating or cornering
  • Higher risk of sliding in rain, frost, light snow, or any icy patches
  • Less predictable handling (the tire may feel “hard” and skatey)

Why the risk spikes around 45°F (7°C)

  • Many summer tire compounds start losing performance quickly as temps drop into the 40s°F and below.
  • It’s not just snow/ice—cold dry pavement can still be a problem.

Can summer tires be damaged by cold?

In very cold conditions, some summer tires can be more prone to cracking if flexed/used when the rubber is extremely stiff (this depends on the specific tire and temperature). Even without visible damage, performance can be compromised.

Practical guidance

If temps are regularly below 45°F, switch to:

All-weather (3PMSF) for a one-set solution, or Winter tires for best snow/ice safety.

If you get caught in a cold snap on summers, drive slowly, avoid sudden inputs, and increase following distance—but the safest move is still switching tires.

Takeaway: Summer tires in cold weather aren’t just “a little worse”—they can lose a large amount of grip, making braking and handling significantly less safe, especially below about 45°F.

Highway terrain (HT) vs all-terrain (AT) vs mud-terrain (MT) explained

These three categories describe how aggressive a tire’s tread is and what it’s optimized for. In general:

HT = quiet and efficient on-road, AT = balanced on/off-road, MT = maximum off-road traction with major on-road tradeoffs.

1) Highway Terrain (HT)

Best for: Mostly paved roads (commuting, road trips, light gravel).

  • Smoothest and quietest ride
  • Best wet-road manners for day-to-day driving (varies by model)
  • Typically best fuel economy / EV efficiency (lower rolling resistance)
  • Long tread life is common

Tradeoffs:

  • Limited bite in mud, deep snow, or loose terrain
  • Not ideal for regular off-road use

Choose HT if:

You drive primarily on pavement and want comfort, low noise, and good efficiency.

2) All-Terrain (AT)

Best for: Mixed driving (pavement + dirt roads, trails, light-to-moderate off-road).

  • More aggressive tread blocks for grip on gravel, dirt, and rocks
  • Stronger sidewalls on many models (better puncture resistance)
  • Many AT tires offer a 3PMSF snow rating (check the sidewall)

Tradeoffs:

  • More road noise than HT (usually)
  • Reduced fuel economy / EV range vs HT (often)
  • Heavier tire and slower steering response compared to HT

Choose AT if:

You regularly drive on dirt/gravel, do light off-roading, or want a tougher tire for truck/SUV use.

3) Mud-Terrain (MT)

Best for: Serious off-road use (mud, deep ruts, loose terrain, rocks).

  • Very aggressive, widely spaced lugs that “self-clean” in mud
  • Maximum off-road traction in messy conditions
  • Strong construction is common

Tradeoffs:

  • Loudest on the highway
  • Often the worst efficiency / EV range
  • Can have reduced wet-road grip compared to HT/AT (depends on design)
  • Usually shorter tread life on pavement, and can feel less precise

Choose MT if:

Off-road performance is your priority and you’re willing to accept noise, efficiency loss, and road-manner compromises.

Simple decision guide

  • Mostly pavement: HT
  • Pavement + frequent dirt roads / trails: AT
  • Heavy mud/off-road use: MT

Takeaway: Pick the least aggressive tire that still meets your needs—HT for comfort/efficiency, AT for balanced versatility, and MT only if you truly need maximum off-road traction.

Do I need dedicated snow rated tires for my area?

It depends on how often you drive in winter conditions and how cold your typical winter temps are. A good way to decide is to look at (1) temperature, (2) snow/ice frequency, and (3) road/route type.

What “snow-rated” usually means

Most people mean either:

  • A tire with the 3PMSF symbol (Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake) — better snow traction than typical all-seasons, or
  • A true winter tire — best for snow/ice and cold temperatures.

You likely need snow-rated tires (3PMSF or winter) if:

  • Temperatures are often below 45°F (7°C) for weeks/months (rubber grip matters even on dry roads).
  • You regularly drive in snow, slush, or icy conditions, even if it’s just a few times per month.
  • You drive early mornings / late nights when roads refreeze.
  • Your routes include hills, mountains, rural roads, or areas that aren’t plowed quickly.
  • You “have to go” regardless of weather (commute, kids, work, towing, etc.).

All-season tires may be enough if:

  • Winters are mostly mild and roads are usually clear.
  • Snow/ice is rare and you can avoid driving during storms.
  • You’re in an area with fast, reliable plowing and you stay on main roads.

Choosing between all-weather (3PMSF) and winter tires

  • Choose all-weather (3PMSF) if you want one set year-round and you get moderate winter weather.
  • Choose winter tires if you deal with frequent snow/ice, sustained freezing temps, steep terrain, or you want maximum winter safety.

Quick takeaway: If your winter includes regular below-freezing temps or repeated snow/ice driving, snow-rated tires (3PMSF at minimum, winter tires if conditions are harsh) are a smart upgrade for safety and control.

How does tire choice affect EV range?

Tires can have a noticeable impact on EV range because they directly affect how much energy it takes to keep the vehicle moving. The biggest factors are rolling resistance, weight, aerodynamics, and tread design.

1) Rolling resistance (the #1 range factor)

  • “Low rolling resistance” (LRR) tires take less energy to roll, which can improve range.
  • Grippier compounds and aggressive tread patterns usually increase rolling resistance and reduce range.
  • In real-world driving, switching from an efficient OEM-style tire to a more aggressive AT/MT tire can reduce range.

2) Tire weight and rotating mass

  • Heavier tires (and wheels) take more energy to accelerate and can reduce efficiency.
  • Aggressive truck/SUV tires (especially AT/MT or LT-rated) are often heavier than stock.

3) Tread pattern and tire type

  • Highway/Touring tires are typically the most efficient.
  • All-terrain tires usually reduce efficiency due to more tread squirm and weight.
  • Mud-terrain tires tend to be the least efficient (very aggressive tread + heavy construction).

4) Tire width and aerodynamic drag

  • Wider tires can increase aerodynamic drag and rolling resistance.
  • Even if the diameter stays the same, a wider, more aggressive tire can reduce highway range.

5) Tire diameter changes

  • A different overall diameter can slightly change gearing and efficiency, but the bigger issue is usually the side effects (more weight, more width, more aggressive tread).
  • Large diameter changes can also affect speedometer/odometer accuracy.

6) Tire pressure (maintenance matters)

  • Underinflated tires increase rolling resistance and reduce range.
  • Keeping tires at the recommended “cold” pressure (door-jamb placard) helps efficiency and tread life.

Practical guidance

  • If maximum range is your priority: choose an OEM-style or EV-focused touring tire with lower rolling resistance.
  • If you want more traction (snow/off-road), expect a tradeoff: more grip and toughness usually means less range.

Takeaway: The more aggressive, heavier, and wider the tire, the more likely it is to reduce EV range—rolling resistance and weight are usually the biggest drivers.

Safety Ratings & Specs

What are load index and load range, and why they matter?

These tell you how much weight a tire can safely carry. They’re critical for safety, handling, and durability—especially on trucks/SUVs, EVs (heavier curb weights), and when towing or hauling.

1) Load Index (a number)

  • The load index is a number on the tire that corresponds to a maximum weight capacity per tire at a specified pressure.
  • You’ll see it next to the tire size, often with the speed rating, like:

    275/60R20 115T

    Here, “115” is the load index.
  • Higher load index = higher weight capacity.

Why it matters:

  • If the load index is too low, the tire can be overloaded, which increases heat, reduces stability, accelerates wear, and can lead to failure.
  • Your replacement tires should meet or exceed the vehicle’s required load index (check the door-jamb placard and/or owner’s manual).

2) Load Range (a letter: often on LT tires)

  • Load range is most common on Light Truck (LT) tires and indicates the tire’s strength and maximum inflation pressure capability.
  • Examples: Load Range C, D, E (you may also see “10-ply rated” style language).
  • Higher load range generally means a stronger tire that can carry more load at higher pressures (but it can ride stiffer).

Why it matters:

  • Load range affects how the tire behaves under heavy loads (payload/towing) and how resistant it is to damage (puncture/sidewall strength).
  • Choosing too low a load range can compromise safety under load.
  • Choosing a much higher load range than you need can make the ride harsher and sometimes reduce efficiency.

Practical guidance

For most vehicles: match the OEM-required load spec, or go higher if you tow/haul often.

Don’t guess—verify:

  • Door-jamb placard (recommended tire spec and pressure)
  • Tire sidewall markings (load index / load range)
  • Your actual usage (payload, trailer tongue weight, cargo)

Takeaway: Load index (number) and load range (letter) define how much weight a tire can safely handle. Always meet or exceed OEM requirements—especially for heavy EVs and towing—because the wrong load rating is a safety issue.

Speed rating — what does it mean and can I go lower/higher?

A tire’s speed rating is a letter that indicates the maximum speed the tire is designed to sustain under specific test conditions. It’s also a general clue about how the tire is built—higher speed ratings often come with better high-speed stability and handling, but sometimes shorter tread life and a firmer ride (depending on tire type).

Where to find it

  • It’s usually shown right after the load index, like:


    275/60R20 115T


    Here, “T” is the speed rating.


What it means (in practical terms)

The rating reflects the tire’s ability to handle heat and stress at speed.

It matters even if you never drive at those speeds because it can correlate with:

  • Handling responsiveness
  • Heat resistance under load
  • Stability during emergency maneuvers

Can I go lower than the OEM speed rating?

Sometimes, but it’s not always recommended.

Going lower can reduce high-speed stability and heat margin, especially for:

  • Heavy vehicles (many EVs)
  • Towing/hauling
  • Hot climates or long highway drives


It may also affect warranty, insurance, and compliance depending on where you live and the vehicle’s requirements.

Can I go higher than the OEM speed rating?

Usually yes, as long as:

  • The tire size is correct
  • The load index/load range meets or exceeds OEM requirements

Higher speed ratings can improve handling feel, but tradeoffs may include:

  • Higher cost
  • Potentially shorter tread life
  • Sometimes a firmer ride

Best practice

  • Match the OEM speed rating whenever possible.
  • If you change it, make sure the tire still meets the vehicle’s intended use and load needs (especially if you tow).
  • Always prioritize correct load rating first—load matters more for safety than speed rating for most drivers.

Takeaway: Speed rating is a tire’s tested maximum-speed capability and a proxy for heat/stability performance. It’s generally safest to match OEM; going higher is usually fine, but going lower can reduce safety margins—especially on heavy vehicles or when towing.

XL / Reinforced tires — when should you choose them?

“XL” (Extra Load) or “Reinforced” means the tire is built to carry more weight at higher inflation pressures than a standard-load tire of the same size. It’s a common requirement on heavier vehicles and performance trims.

What XL/Reinforced means

  • XL tires have a higher load capacity than “Standard Load” (SL) tires in the same size.
  • They’re designed to run at higher max pressures (check the sidewall for the tire’s max PSI).

When you should choose XL/Reinforced

1) Your vehicle requires it (most important)

  • If your door-jamb placard or OEM spec calls for XL (or a higher load index that typically comes with XL construction), you should stick with XL.
  • Many EVs, SUVs, and performance vehicles need the extra load capacity.

2) You carry heavy loads or tow regularly

If you frequently haul cargo, carry a full family + gear, or tow, XL can provide extra load margin (as long as the tire’s load index meets the requirement).

3) You’re upsizing wheels/tires and need the proper load rating

Some alternative sizes may only meet the needed load index in XL form.

When you might NOT want XL

If your vehicle does not require it and you prioritize comfort/efficiency:

  • XL tires can ride a bit firmer than SL tires (depends on model and pressure).
  • They can be slightly heavier, which can affect efficiency/range.

Important notes ⚠️

  • XL is not automatically “better”—it’s the right choice when you need the load capacity.
  • Always verify the tire’s actual load index meets or exceeds the OEM requirement. XL helps, but the load index number is the key.

Takeaway: Choose XL/Reinforced tires when your vehicle’s OEM spec requires it or when you need more load capacity for a heavy vehicle, hauling, or towing. If you don’t need XL, a standard-load tire may ride softer and be a bit more efficient.

Tire pressure basics — where to find it and how to set it correctly

Where to find the correct pressure

1) Driver door-jamb placard (best source)

  • Open the driver door and look for the “Tire and Loading Information” sticker.
  • It lists the recommended tire pressures for the front and rear (sometimes different).
  • This is the pressure you should follow for normal driving unless your owner’s manual provides a special case (like heavy loads).

2) Owner’s manual (backup + special situations)

The manual may include guidance for towing, heavy cargo, or different tire sizes.

3) Tire sidewall (NOT the recommended setting)

  • The sidewall shows the tire’s maximum pressure (max PSI), not what your vehicle should run every day.
  • Don’t inflate to the sidewall max unless specifically instructed for a particular use case.

How to set it correctly (the right way)

1) Check pressure when tires are “cold”

  • “Cold” means the vehicle has been parked for at least a few hours and hasn’t been driven much.
  • Driving heats the tires and increases pressure, so hot readings can be misleading.

2) Use a decent gauge (or a reliable inflator with a gauge)

  • Compare with your TPMS reading if your vehicle shows it, but a handheld gauge is often more accurate.

3) Inflate/deflate to match the door-jamb number

  • Set front and rear to the recommended PSI.
  • If your placard shows different front/rear numbers, follow them.

4) Re-check after a short drive (optional)

  • Pressure will rise as tires warm up—this is normal.
  • Don’t bleed air out of warm tires to “match” the cold spec.

Common pressure tips

  • Expect pressure to change with weather: colder temps usually lower PSI; warmer temps raise it.
  • Underinflation can reduce range/efficiency, increase wear, and hurt handling.
  • Overinflation can reduce ride comfort and traction and may cause uneven wear.

Takeaway: Use the driver door-jamb placard for the correct “cold” tire pressure, check when tires are cold, and set front/rear pressures exactly as listed—don’t use the tire sidewall max as your target.

What is UTQG (treadwear/traction/temperature) and is it useful?

UTQG stands for Uniform Tire Quality Grading. It’s a rating system you’ll see on many passenger-car tires that helps compare three things:

  1. Treadwear
  2. Traction
  3. Temperature resistance

You’ll usually see it written like:

UTQG 500 A A
(This means treadwear 500, traction A, temperature A)

1) Treadwear (the number, like 300 / 500 / 700)

  • This is a relative rating intended to suggest how long the tread may last.
  • Higher number generally means longer tread life.

    Important limitations:
  • Treadwear ratings are not standardized across brands in a perfectly comparable way. A “500” from Brand A may not last the same as a “500” from Brand B.
  • Your driving style, alignment, tire pressure, and road conditions can overwhelm the rating.

2) Traction (AA, A, B, C)

  • This measures straight-line wet braking traction on a standardized test surface.
  • AA is highest, then A, B, C.

    Important limitations:
  • It mainly reflects wet straight-line braking, not cornering grip, hydroplaning resistance, snow traction, or ice traction.

3) Temperature (A, B, C)

  • This measures how well the tire resists heat buildup at speed.
  • A is best, then B, then C.

    Why it matters:
  • Heat resistance is important for durability at highway speeds, heavy loads, and hot weather.

Is UTQG useful?

Yes—but only as a rough comparison tool:

  • Useful for comparing tires within the same brand/product family, or as a general clue (e.g., 700 likely lasts longer than 300).
  • Not great as a single deciding factor because it doesn’t capture snow/ice performance, road noise, ride comfort, or EV efficiency.

Good to know

  • UTQG is most common on passenger tires; many LT (Light Truck) tires don’t use UTQG in the same way.
  • Always combine UTQG with: real-world reviews, warranty/tread-life expectations, load rating, and your driving needs.

Takeaway: UTQG can help you roughly compare tread life and basic wet/heat performance, but it’s not a complete performance score—and it’s not perfectly comparable across different brands.

Maintenance & Longevity

How often should I rotate tires (and rotation patterns)?

How often to rotate

  • A common rule is every 5,000–7,500 miles (or about every oil change interval for ICE vehicles).
  • For EVs (higher weight + instant torque), rotating on the earlier side can help even out wear.
  • Also rotate sooner if you notice uneven wear, vibration, or steering pull (after checking alignment/balance).

Best practice:

  • Follow your owner’s manual if it specifies a rotation interval.
  • Rotate anytime you install new tires, and keep tires properly inflated to help them wear evenly.

Rotation patterns (most common)

1) Front-wheel drive (FWD) / Rear-wheel drive (RWD) with non-directional, same-size tires

Use a “cross” pattern:

  • Front tires move to the rear (often straight back)
  • Rear tires move to the front and swap sides (cross)
  • This helps even out different wear patterns between front and rear.

2) All-wheel drive (AWD) / 4WD with same-size tires:

  • Use a “cross” pattern similar to above, unless the manual specifies otherwise.
  • AWD systems benefit from keeping tread wear as even as possible across all four tires.

3) Directional tires (they have an arrow showing rotation direction)

  • Directional tires can only stay on the same side of the vehicle.
  • Pattern is typically front-to-rear on the same side (no crossing).

4) Staggered setups (different front and rear tire sizes)

  • Often you can only rotate side-to-side (if tires are non-directional), or you may not be able to rotate at all.
  • Many staggered performance setups have limited rotation options—check tire type and fitment.

5) LT truck tires / towing-heavy use

  • If you tow or haul frequently, rotate consistently and consider more frequent intervals.
  • Some trucks allow a 5-tire rotation if you include the full-size spare (only if the spare matches and your manual supports it).

Signs you should rotate sooner:

  • Front tires wearing faster than rear (or vice versa)
  • Uneven shoulder wear, cupping, or feathering (may indicate alignment/suspension issues)
  • New vibration after many miles

Takeaway: Rotate about every 5,000–7,500 miles (earlier for EVs or heavy use). Use a cross pattern for most same-size, non-directional tires; use front-to-rear only for directional tires; and staggered setups may have limited rotation options.

When do I need an alignment (symptoms + intervals)?

A wheel alignment sets your suspension angles (toe, camber, caster) so the vehicle tracks straight and the tires wear evenly. You typically need an alignment when you notice symptoms, after certain events, or at sensible intervals.

Common symptoms you need an alignment

  • Vehicle pulls left or right on a straight, flat road
  • Steering wheel is off-center when driving straight

Uneven tire wear, such as:

  • Inside-edge or outside-edge wear
  • Feathering (tread feels sharp in one direction)
  • Rapid wear on one tire compared to the others


  • “Wandering” or feeling unstable at highway speeds
  • New steering vibration (note: vibration is often balance, but alignment can contribute)

Events that often require an alignment

  • After hitting a big pothole, curb, or road hazard
  • After suspension or steering work (tie rods, control arms, struts, lift/level kit)
  • After changing ride height (lift/level or lowering)
  • *️⃣After installing new tires (highly recommended if wear was uneven, or if you want to protect the investment)

How often (interval guidance)

  • A practical interval is about every 24 months or 30,000 miles, (if no symptoms) —especially if roads are rough where you live.
  • If you drive a heavy vehicle, tow often, or drive on rough roads, checking alignment more frequently can help.
  • Always check alignment immediately if you see abnormal wear or other symptoms—waiting can ruin a new set of tires quickly.

Quick note: alignment vs balance

  • Alignment issues usually cause pulling, off-center steering, and uneven wear.
  • Balance issues more often cause a vibration that changes with speed.

Takeaway: Get an alignment if you notice pulling, off-center steering, wandering, or uneven tire wear—plus after pothole impacts, suspension changes, or new tires (especially if the old set wore unevenly).

How to read uneven wear (cupping, feathering, inside-edge wear)

Uneven tire wear is your early warning system. It can point to alignment, balance, inflation, or worn suspension parts.

Here are the most common patterns and what they usually mean.

1) Cupping / scalloping (dips around the tread)

What it looks/feels like:

  • Wavy “cups” or low spots around the tread blocks
  • Often comes with a humming/roaring noise that gets louder with speed

Common causes:

  • Worn shocks/struts (tire bounces and “hops”)
  • Wheel imbalance
  • Loose/worn suspension components (ball joints, bushings)
  • Sometimes from running underinflated for long periods

What to do:

  • Have the tires balanced
  • Inspect shocks/struts and suspension parts
  • Rotate tires (if wear isn’t too severe) to slow progression

2) Feathering (tread feels sharp one way, smooth the other)

What it looks/feels like:

  • Run your hand across the tread: it feels smooth in one direction and “sharp”/sawtooth in the other
  • Can cause road noise or a slight vibration

Common causes:

  • Alignment issue, most commonly incorrect toe (toe-in/toe-out)

What to do:

  • Get a wheel alignment
  • Rotate tires to help even things out after alignment (if tread is still healthy)

3) Inside-edge wear (wear on the inner shoulder of the tire)

What it looks/feels like:

  • The inside shoulder wears much faster than the center or outside
  • Can be hard to see unless you look behind the tire or crawl under the vehicle

Common causes:

  • Too much negative camber (alignment)
  • Toe issues (alignment)
  • Worn suspension parts that allow the wheel angle to shift
  • Lowered vehicles or heavy loads can increase inside-edge wear if alignment isn’t corrected

What to do:

  • Get an alignment (and ask the shop to check camber/toe)
  • Inspect suspension components for wear
  • Catch it early—inside-edge wear can destroy a tire quickly

Quick checks you can do at home

  • Use a tread depth gauge (or a coin) and compare inside vs center vs outside
  • Run your hand over the tread for feathering
  • Look for repeating dips/“cups” and listen for unusual tire noise

⚠️Important note

  • If you see cords, bulges, or very uneven wear, the tire may be unsafe—have it inspected immediately.

Takeaway: Cupping usually points to shocks/balance/suspension issues, feathering often points to toe alignment, and inside-edge wear commonly points to camber/toe alignment or worn suspension—fix the cause early to save the tires.

What tread depth is “replace now”?

There’s a legal minimum, but “safe to keep driving” depends on conditions (rain vs snow).

Here are practical replace-now thresholds most people use:

1) Absolute minimum (replace immediately) ⚠️

  • 2/32" tread depth = the legal minimum in many places and when the wear bars are flush with the tread.
  • At 2/32", wet traction and hydroplaning resistance are typically very poor.
  • If you’re at/near 2/32", it’s “replace now.”

2) For wet-weather safety (strongly consider replacing)

  • 4/32" is a common “replace soon/now” point for rainy conditions.
  • Below 4/32", hydroplaning resistance drops quickly, especially at highway speeds.

3) For snow performance (replace now if you see winter)

  • 6/32" is a common minimum for decent snow traction.
  • Below 6/32", many tires lose a lot of their ability to bite into snow and slush.

4) For winter tires specifically

  • Many people replace winter tires around 6/32" (some even earlier) because winter traction fades well before 2/32".

Easy ways to check at home

  • Tread depth gauge (best): measure in several spots across the tire (inside/center/outside).
  • Wear bars: if they’re level with the tread, you’re at ~2/32".
  • Quick coin checks (rough guide): a gauge is more accurate, but coins can help in a pinch.

Takeaway: Replace at 2/32" no matter what. For real-world safety, replace around 4/32" for wet roads and 6/32" if you drive in snow.

How old is “too old” (DOT date code) even if tread looks good?

Tires can “age out” even when the tread looks fine. Over time, rubber and internal materials degrade, which can increase the risk of cracking and failure—especially with heat, sun exposure, heavy loads, or long storage.

How to read the DOT date code (the tire’s “birthday”)

  • Find the DOT/TIN code on the tire sidewall.
  • The last 4 digits are the build date in week/year format (WWYY).

Example: 0320 = 3rd week of 2020.

The full DOT string may be on only one side of the tire, so you may need to look on the inner sidewall too.

So… what age is “too old”?

  • After about 5 years, it’s smart to have tires inspected at least once per year (even if tread looks good).
  • Many vehicle manufacturers recommend replacing tires around 6 years regardless of tread (guidance varies by brand and use).
  • 10 years is commonly treated as a maximum age—replace as a precaution even if they appear usable (this includes spare tires).

Replace sooner (even before those ages) if you see any of these:

  • Sidewall cracking/dry rot
  • Bulges/blisters
  • Repeated air loss
  • Vibration that balancing doesn’t fix
  • Evidence the tire has been run underinflated or overloaded

Takeaway: Check the DOT date code (last 4 digits). Plan on annual inspections after 5 years, and treat 10 years as a practical max—sooner if you see cracking or you drive/tow in harsh conditions.

Common Tire Ownership Questions

Do I need TPMS sensors or relearn after mounting?

In most cases, yes—you’ll either need to reuse your existing TPMS sensors, install new ones, and/or perform a “relearn” so the vehicle knows which sensor is at which wheel.

1) Do I need TPMS sensors at all?

  • If your vehicle has TPMS (most modern vehicles do), you need working sensors to avoid warning lights and to get accurate pressure readings.
  • If you’re mounting tires onto your existing wheels, the TPMS sensors usually stay in the wheels and can be reused if they’re in good shape.

2) When do I need new TPMS sensors?

You may need new sensors if:

  • The sensors are old and the internal batteries are failing (many last roughly 5–10 years, but it varies).
  • A sensor is damaged during tire mounting/dismounting.
  • You’re buying a second set of wheels and want TPMS in that wheel set.
  • Your vehicle uses a newer sensor type (frequency/protocol) that older universal sensors don’t support.

3) What is a TPMS “relearn” and when is it needed?

A relearn tells the vehicle which sensor belongs to each wheel position (LF, RF, RR, LR).

You typically need a relearn if:

  • Tires were rotated and your vehicle displays pressure by wheel location.
  • Sensors were replaced.
  • You installed a second set of wheels/sensors.
  • The vehicle isn’t automatically learning the new sensor positions.

Some vehicles “auto-learn” after driving, but many require a manual relearn procedure.

1) What happens if you don’t relearn?

  • The TPMS light may stay on, or
  • Pressures may show in the wrong wheel position, or
  • The system may not register new sensors.

Practical guidance

Ask the tire shop to confirm whether your vehicle requires:

  • A TPMS reset/relearn tool
  • An auto-learn drive cycle

If you’re changing wheels, make sure sensors are the correct type for your vehicle.

Takeaway: If you’re keeping the same wheels, you usually reuse the existing TPMS sensors. If you rotate tires, replace sensors, or swap wheels, you may need a TPMS relearn so the vehicle correctly recognizes sensor positions.

Do run-flat tires require special wheels or service?

Run-flat tires are designed to be driven for a limited distance after a loss of air, but they come with extra requirements and tradeoffs. Whether you need special wheels or service depends on the type of run-flat and the vehicle.

1) Do run-flats require special wheels?

  • Usually, run-flats are intended to be used with wheels that have a “safety hump”/retention design to help keep the bead seated during low or zero pressure. Many modern OEM wheels are compatible, but not all aftermarket wheels are.
  • Some run-flat systems (especially older or specialized designs) may require specific wheel profiles. In most normal passenger-vehicle situations, the bigger requirement is that the wheel is correctly sized and compatible, and that the vehicle has TPMS.
  • Bottom line: You don’t always need a “special” wheel, but you do need a compatible wheel design and proper sizing. If your vehicle came with run-flats from the factory, the wheels are almost certainly compatible.

2) Do run-flats require TPMS?

  • Yes, practically speaking. Because run-flats can look “normal” even when low, TPMS is important so you know you’ve lost pressure.
  • Many vehicles that use run-flats from the factory do not include a spare tire for this reason.

3) Do run-flats require special mounting/balancing service?

  • Often, yes. Run-flats have stiffer sidewalls, which can make them harder to mount and dismount.

Tire shops typically use proper tire machines and procedures to avoid damaging:

  • The tire bead/sidewall
  • The wheel
  • TPMS sensors

Some shops charge more for run-flat mounting due to the added difficulty.

4) Can you repair a run-flat after driving on it flat?

  • Sometimes, but often the answer is “replace it.”
  • If a run-flat has been driven with very low/no pressure, the internal structure can be damaged even if the outside looks fine.
  • Many manufacturers recommend replacing a run-flat that’s been driven flat (or only repairing if it was caught early and inspected).

5) Tradeoffs to know

  • Ride can be firmer and noise can be higher compared to non-run-flats (varies by model).
  • They’re typically more expensive.
  • Tread life and winter traction vary widely—choose based on your conditions, not just “run-flat vs not.”

Takeaway: Run-flats don’t always require “special wheels,” but they do require wheel compatibility and TPMS, and they often need a shop experienced with run-flat mounting. If you’ve driven on a run-flat while it was flat, it may need to be replaced after inspection.

What balancing method is best (road force vs standard)?

⚠️EV Outdoors recommends road-force balancing on a hunter elite machine for the best performance and ride quality possible.

Standard (spin) balancing:

  • What it does: Corrects “weight imbalance” by spinning the tire/wheel assembly in the air and telling the tech where to add weights.
  • When it’s enough: Most everyday tire installs where you don’t have vibration issues.

Road Force balancing (Hunter Road Force Elite):

What it does: In addition to normal balancing, it presses a load roller against the tire to simulate real road load and measures how the tire and wheel behave under pressure.

What it finds that standard balancing can miss:

  • Tire/wheel “out-of-round” or runout issues
  • Radial force variation (a stiff spot in the tire that can cause a shake even if it’s perfectly weight-balanced)
  • Mounting/centering problems, and it can suggest “match-mounting” (rotating the tire on the wheel to line up high/low spots to reduce vibration)


Why the Hunter Road Force Elite is popular:


It combines traditional balancing + Road Force measurement in one process, and the machine applies a heavy, controlled load with the roller to diagnose vibration-causing issues more like the tire experiences on the road. It also includes features aimed at reducing setup errors and improving weight placement accuracy.

Which one is “best”?

  • If you want the highest chance of a perfectly smooth ride (especially on EVs, low-profile tires, big wheels, trucks/SUVs, or after you’ve had a stubborn vibration), Road Force balancing on a Hunter Road Force Elite is usually the best choice.
  • If you’re doing a normal tire swap and you’ve never had vibration issues, standard balancing is often fine.

Rule of thumb:

Choose Road Force balancing if: you feel any vibration now, you’re installing new tires on sensitive vehicles/wheels, you’re running larger/heavier tires, or you want the best “do it once” result.

Choose standard balancing if: it’s a basic install and you’re cost-focused, with no history of vibration.

Proper lug nut torque and re-torque after installation

Why lug nut torque matters

Too loose: the wheel can shift, studs can shear, and the wheel can come off.

Too tight: you can stretch/break studs, damage wheels, and even contribute to brake rotor warping or vibration.

How to find the correct torque spec:

  • Owner’s manual
  • Manufacturer service info
  • Sometimes the torque spec is listed on a placard (less common than tire pressure).


Don’t guess! Different vehicles (and even different wheel types) can have different specs.

Best practice for installing wheels (the “right way”)

1) Start with clean, flat mounting surfaces

  • Make sure the wheel mounting face and hub face are clean (no rust flakes, dirt, paint buildup).
  • A dirty mounting surface can cause wobble and loosening.

2) Hand-thread first

Start each lug nut by hand a few turns to avoid cross-threading.

3) Snug in a star pattern

  • Snug the lugs in a star/cross pattern (not in a circle).
  • This seats the wheel evenly.

4) Final torque with a torque wrench (not an impact)

  • Use a calibrated torque wrench for final tightening.
  • If a shop uses an impact, they should still finish with a torque wrench.

6) Torque in steps

  • Bring them up in 2–3 stages (example: 50% torque, then 100% torque), always using the star pattern.

7) Don’t lubricate unless the manufacturer specifies it

  • Oil/anti-seize on studs can change clamping force and lead to over-tightening.
  • Follow the manufacturer’s guidance for your vehicle and hardware.

Re-torque after installation (important)

  • Recheck torque after about 25–100 miles of driving (many people use 50 miles as a simple rule).

This is especially important if:

  • You installed new wheels, spacers, or aftermarket lug nuts
  • Wheels are freshly painted/powder-coated
  • You tow or carry heavy loads


Always re-torque with the wheels cool and on a level surface.

Quick takeaway

Use the factory torque spec, tighten in a star pattern, finish with a torque wrench, and re-torque after 25–100 miles (especially with new wheels/aftermarket hardware).

Warranties: what’s typically covered (treadwear vs defects)?

Most tire warranties fall into two main buckets: (1) defects in materials/workmanship, and (2) treadwear (mileage) warranties. They’re very different.

1) Defects warranty (materials/workmanship)

What it usually covers:

  • Manufacturing defects in the tire itself (materials or workmanship)
  • Issues like separation, abnormal cracking from a defect, or other failures judged to be manufacturing-related

How it’s typically handled:

  • If a defect is confirmed, the tire may be replaced free or at a prorated cost depending on how much it’s been used
  • Coverage is usually time-limited (example: several years from purchase) and also limited by remaining tread depth

What it usually does NOT cover:

  • Normal wear and tear
  • Damage from road hazards (nails, potholes, impacts)
  • Damage from improper inflation, overloading, or misuse
  • Uneven wear caused by alignment/suspension issues or lack of rotation

2) Treadwear (mileage) warranty

What it usually covers:

If the tire wears out before a stated mileage (example: 60,000 miles), you may get a prorated credit toward a replacement

Key details (this is where people get surprised):

  • It’s almost always prorated, not a free replacement (you get credit based on how much life you didn’t get)
  • You usually must prove proper maintenance, such as regular rotations at the required intervals, Proper inflation, and Alignment kept in spec (or at least no obvious alignment-caused wear)

Many treadwear warranties exclude certain uses:

Commercial use, aggressive/off-road use, track use, towing-heavy duty cycles (varies by tire)

Staggered tire setups (different front/rear sizes) often have limited or no mileage warranty.


3) Road hazard coverage (often separate)

  • Punctures, nails, pothole impacts, and sidewall damage are usually NOT covered by the standard manufacturer warranty
  • Some retailers sell road hazard protection or include it with purchase (this is typically where you’d get coverage for repair/replace due to damage)

What you should do (to protect warranty eligibility)

  • Keep receipts and install paperwork
  • Rotate on schedule and keep records
  • Check and maintain tire pressure
  • Address alignment issues early if uneven wear appears

Takeaway: Defect warranties cover manufacturing problems. Treadwear warranties cover wearing out “too soon,” usually as a prorated credit—and both can be denied if the tire was damaged, neglected, or worn unevenly due to alignment/pressure/rotation issues.

🛣️All-Season & All Purpose

The Hankook iON HT is a highway-terrain, all-season tire built specifically for electric light-duty trucks and full-size SUVs, with a focus on efficiency, long tread life, and quiet comfort. Hankook positions it as an “EV endurance” tire. What makes the iON HT stand out for EV owners—especially drivers of the Rivian R1S and Rivian R1T—is that it’s engineered to help you go more miles per charge through low rolling resistance tech (like Opti-Cure and “Roll Lite” compound) while still supporting the higher vehicle weights common in EV trucks/SUVs. Hankook also highlights wear-focused features (Round Even, Opti-Tread, ProDurable compound) intended to promote even contact pressure and reduce uneven wear over time.

Given the goal of all-season and on-road performance its no wonder the iON HT gets our nod as the best choice for the Rivian R1S & R1T electric adventure trucks.

22" (2022+) ➡️ Hankook iON HT

21" (2022-2024) ➡️Hankook iON HT

20" (2022+) ➡️ Hankook iON HT

🌄All-Terrain & On-Road

22" (2022+) ➡️ Pirelli Scorpion ATR 

The Pirelli Scorpion ATR is an on-road all-terrain tire designed to balance everyday highway comfort with extra grip for gravel, dirt roads, and light off-road use—making it a solid “one tire for everything” option for drivers who want more capability than a highway tire without the harshness of a mud-terrain. For Rivian R1S and Rivian R1T owners, it can be a nice fit for adventure-style driving where you still spend most miles on pavement

21" (2022-2024) ➡️ Yokohama Geolandar A/T4


The Yokohama Geolandar A/T4 (G018) is a modern all-terrain tire built to balance quiet on-road comfort with real off-pavement capability for trucks and SUVs. It replaces Yokohama’s prior Geolandar A/T G015 and is severe-snow service rated (3PMSF), making it a strong “one set year-round” option for drivers who see winter weather but still want an all-terrain tread. For Rivian R1S and Rivian R1T owners, the Geolandar A/T4 can be a great match if you want an all-terrain tire that still behaves well on the highway while adding confidence on dirt roads, gravel, and in snow.


20" (2022+) ➡️ Bridgestone Dueler A/T Ascent


The Bridgestone Dueler A/T Ascent is a premium all-terrain, all-season tire designed to deliver quiet, comfortable highway manners while still adding real traction for gravel, dirt roads, and light off-road use—great for drivers who want capability without the noise and harshness of more aggressive A/Ts. It’s built with Bridgestone ENLITEN Technology to help optimize all-season performance and wear, and it uses Full-Depth 3D sipes plus wide grooves/open shoulder slots to add biting edges and help manage water and slush for wet and wintry confidence. It’s also 3PMSF (severe snow) certified, which makes it a strong year-round option for climates that see real winter conditions. For Rivian R1S and Rivian R1T owners, the Dueler A/T Ascent can be a smart “adventure-ready daily driver” tire—comfortable for commuting and road trips, but tougher and more sure-footed when you turn off pavement.

🏁Summer High Performance

22" (2022+) ➡️ Michelin Pilot Sport S 5 


The Michelin Pilot Sport S 5 is a Max Performance Summer tire built for drivers who want sharp steering feel, strong dry grip, and confident wet control—with a design that’s co-developed with vehicle manufacturers for precision handling on the street (and occasional track use). It has asymmetric tread with a Dual Sport Tread Design: large, rigid outer blocks aimed at lateral dry grip, paired with wide inner grooves and wet-focused rubber formulation to help evacuate water and support braking/control in the wet. This tire is for Rivian R1S and Rivian R1T owners looking for a sportier, performance-oriented setup.

⚠️As with any summer tire, it’s not intended for freezing temps, snow, or ice—so if you deal with real winter conditions, plan a seasonal swap to an all-weather or dedicated winter tire.

🚙Off-Road & Mud

20" (2022+) ➡️ Toyo Open Country A/T III EV

The Toyo Open Country A/T III EV is a strong choice for Rivian R1S and R1T owners who actually take their truck/SUV off pavement. It’s built to handle EV torque and weight, with a tougher all-terrain construction that’s well-suited for rocky trails, rutted forest roads, loose gravel, and muddy two-tracks. The aggressive tread and reinforced build help resist punctures and sidewall damage, while still offering predictable steering and braking when you transition back to pavement after a trail day.
⚠️FOR THE BEST OFF-ROAD RESULTS IN YOUR RIVIAN R1, CHOOSE THE CORRECT SIZE AND LOAD RATING. AIR DOWN APPROPRIATELY (WITHIN SAFE LIMITS) TO IMPROVE TRACTION AND RIDE OVER ROUGH TERRAIN.

ℹ️Expect reduced range and increased road noise

⚠️For best results, run a full set of four and verify the proper size and load index for your R1S/R1T to maintain safe, predictable winter control.

🌨️Snow & Ice

20" (2022+) ➡️ Bridgestone Blizzak LT


The Bridgestone Blizzak LT is a winter-focused tire option for Rivian R1S and R1T owners who drive in serious cold, snow, and slush. It’s designed to deliver strong traction during acceleration and confident braking on slick roads—exactly what you want with an EV’s instant torque and heavier curb weight.

22" (2022+) ➡️ Nokian Hakkapeliitta R5 SUV


The Nokian Hakkapeliitta R5 SUV is a premium studdless winter tire that’s an excellent match for Rivian R1S and R1T owners dealing with long winters, freezing temps, and snow-packed roads. It’s engineered for confident ice and snow traction, with strong braking performance and stable handling—important for the Rivian’s instant torque and heavier weight. Compared with many winter options, it also aims to keep rolling resistance and road noise more reasonable, which can help preserve day-to-day comfort and efficiency in cold weather.

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