In most cases, yes—you’ll either need to reuse your existing TPMS sensors, install new ones, and/or perform a “relearn” so the vehicle knows which sensor is at which wheel.

1) Do I need TPMS sensors at all?

• If your vehicle has TPMS (most modern vehicles do), you need working sensors to avoid warning lights and to get accurate pressure readings.
  
• If you’re mounting tires onto your existing wheels, the TPMS sensors usually stay in the wheels and can be reused if they’re in good shape.
  

2) When do I need new TPMS sensors?

You may need new sensors if:

• The sensors are old and the internal batteries are failing (many last roughly 5–10 years, but it varies).
  
• A sensor is damaged during tire mounting/dismounting.
  
• You’re buying a second set of wheels and want TPMS in that wheel set.
  
• Your vehicle uses a newer sensor type (frequency/protocol) that older universal sensors don’t support.
  

3) What is a TPMS “relearn” and when is it needed?

A relearn tells the vehicle which sensor belongs to each wheel position (LF, RF, RR, LR).

You typically need a relearn if:

• Tires were rotated and your vehicle displays pressure by wheel location.
  
• Sensors were replaced.
  
• You installed a second set of wheels/sensors.
  
• The vehicle isn’t automatically learning the new sensor positions.
  

Some vehicles “auto-learn” after driving, but many require a manual relearn procedure.

1) What happens if you don’t relearn?

• The TPMS light may stay on, or
  
• Pressures may show in the wrong wheel position, or
  
• The system may not register new sensors.
  

Practical guidance

Ask the tire shop to confirm whether your vehicle requires:

• A TPMS reset/relearn tool
• An auto-learn drive cycle

If you’re changing wheels, make sure sensors are the correct type for your vehicle.

Takeaway: If you’re keeping the same wheels, you usually reuse the existing TPMS sensors. If you rotate tires, replace sensors, or swap wheels, you may need a TPMS relearn so the vehicle correctly recognizes sensor positions.

Run-flat tires are designed to be driven for a limited distance after a loss of air, but they come with extra requirements and tradeoffs. Whether you need special wheels or service depends on the type of run-flat and the vehicle.

1) Do run-flats require special wheels?

• Usually, run-flats are intended to be used with wheels that have a “safety hump”/retention design to help keep the bead seated during low or zero pressure. Many modern OEM wheels are compatible, but not all aftermarket wheels are.
  
• Some run-flat systems (especially older or specialized designs) may require specific wheel profiles. In most normal passenger-vehicle situations, the bigger requirement is that the wheel is correctly sized and compatible, and that the vehicle has TPMS.
  
• Bottom line: You don’t always need a “special” wheel, but you do need a compatible wheel design and proper sizing. If your vehicle came with run-flats from the factory, the wheels are almost certainly compatible.
  

2) Do run-flats require TPMS?

• Yes, practically speaking. Because run-flats can look “normal” even when low, TPMS is important so you know you’ve lost pressure.
  
• Many vehicles that use run-flats from the factory do not include a spare tire for this reason.
  

3) Do run-flats require special mounting/balancing service?

• Often, yes. Run-flats have stiffer sidewalls, which can make them harder to mount and dismount.
  

Tire shops typically use proper tire machines and procedures to avoid damaging:

• The tire bead/sidewall
• The wheel
• TPMS sensors
  

Some shops charge more for run-flat mounting due to the added difficulty.

4) Can you repair a run-flat after driving on it flat?

• Sometimes, but often the answer is “replace it.”
  
• If a run-flat has been driven with very low/no pressure, the internal structure can be damaged even if the outside looks fine.
  
• Many manufacturers recommend replacing a run-flat that’s been driven flat (or only repairing if it was caught early and inspected).
  

5) Tradeoffs to know

• Ride can be firmer and noise can be higher compared to non-run-flats (varies by model).
  
• They’re typically more expensive.
  
• Tread life and winter traction vary widely—choose based on your conditions, not just “run-flat vs not.”
  

Takeaway: Run-flats don’t always require “special wheels,” but they do require wheel compatibility and TPMS, and they often need a shop experienced with run-flat mounting. If you’ve driven on a run-flat while it was flat, it may need to be replaced after inspection.

⚠️EV Outdoors recommends road-force balancing on a hunter elite machine for the best performance and ride quality possible.

Standard (spin) balancing:

• What it does: Corrects “weight imbalance” by spinning the tire/wheel assembly in the air and telling the tech where to add weights.
  
• When it’s enough: Most everyday tire installs where you don’t have vibration issues.
  

Road Force balancing (Hunter Road Force Elite):

What it does: In addition to normal balancing, it presses a load roller against the tire to simulate real road load and measures how the tire and wheel behave under pressure.

What it finds that standard balancing can miss:

• Tire/wheel “out-of-round” or runout issues
• Radial force variation (a stiff spot in the tire that can cause a shake even if it’s perfectly weight-balanced)
• Mounting/centering problems, and it can suggest “match-mounting” (rotating the tire on the wheel to line up high/low spots to reduce vibration)

Why the Hunter Road Force Elite is popular:


It combines traditional balancing + Road Force measurement in one process, and the machine applies a heavy, controlled load with the roller to diagnose vibration-causing issues more like the tire experiences on the road. It also includes features aimed at reducing setup errors and improving weight placement accuracy.

Which one is “best”?

• If you want the highest chance of a perfectly smooth ride (especially on EVs, low-profile tires, big wheels, trucks/SUVs, or after you’ve had a stubborn vibration), Road Force balancing on a Hunter Road Force Elite is usually the best choice.
  
• If you’re doing a normal tire swap and you’ve never had vibration issues, standard balancing is often fine.
  

Rule of thumb:

Choose Road Force balancing if: you feel any vibration now, you’re installing new tires on sensitive vehicles/wheels, you’re running larger/heavier tires, or you want the best “do it once” result.

Choose standard balancing if: it’s a basic install and you’re cost-focused, with no history of vibration.

Why lug nut torque matters

Too loose: the wheel can shift, studs can shear, and the wheel can come off.

Too tight: you can stretch/break studs, damage wheels, and even contribute to brake rotor warping or vibration.

How to find the correct torque spec:

• Owner’s manual
• Manufacturer service info
• Sometimes the torque spec is listed on a placard (less common than tire pressure).

Don’t guess! Different vehicles (and even different wheel types) can have different specs.

Best practice for installing wheels (the “right way”)

1) Start with clean, flat mounting surfaces

• Make sure the wheel mounting face and hub face are clean (no rust flakes, dirt, paint buildup).
  
• A dirty mounting surface can cause wobble and loosening.
  

2) Hand-thread first

Start each lug nut by hand a few turns to avoid cross-threading.

3) Snug in a star pattern

• Snug the lugs in a star/cross pattern (not in a circle).
  
• This seats the wheel evenly.
  

4) Final torque with a torque wrench (not an impact)

• Use a calibrated torque wrench for final tightening.
  
• If a shop uses an impact, they should still finish with a torque wrench.
  

6) Torque in steps

• Bring them up in 2–3 stages (example: 50% torque, then 100% torque), always using the star pattern.
  

7) Don’t lubricate unless the manufacturer specifies it

• Oil/anti-seize on studs can change clamping force and lead to over-tightening.
  
• Follow the manufacturer’s guidance for your vehicle and hardware.
  

Re-torque after installation (important)

• Recheck torque after about 25–100 miles of driving (many people use 50 miles as a simple rule).
  

This is especially important if:

• You installed new wheels, spacers, or aftermarket lug nuts
• Wheels are freshly painted/powder-coated
• You tow or carry heavy loads

Always re-torque with the wheels cool and on a level surface.

Quick takeaway

Use the factory torque spec, tighten in a star pattern, finish with a torque wrench, and re-torque after 25–100 miles (especially with new wheels/aftermarket hardware).

Most tire warranties fall into two main buckets: (1) defects in materials/workmanship, and (2) treadwear (mileage) warranties. They’re very different.

1) Defects warranty (materials/workmanship)

What it usually covers:

• Manufacturing defects in the tire itself (materials or workmanship)
  
• Issues like separation, abnormal cracking from a defect, or other failures judged to be manufacturing-related
  

How it’s typically handled:

• If a defect is confirmed, the tire may be replaced free or at a prorated cost depending on how much it’s been used
  
• Coverage is usually time-limited (example: several years from purchase) and also limited by remaining tread depth
  

What it usually does NOT cover:

• Normal wear and tear
  
• Damage from road hazards (nails, potholes, impacts)
  
• Damage from improper inflation, overloading, or misuse
  
• Uneven wear caused by alignment/suspension issues or lack of rotation
  

2) Treadwear (mileage) warranty

What it usually covers:

If the tire wears out before a stated mileage (example: 60,000 miles), you may get a prorated credit toward a replacement

Key details (this is where people get surprised):

• It’s almost always prorated, not a free replacement (you get credit based on how much life you didn’t get)
  
• You usually must prove proper maintenance, such as regular rotations at the required intervals, Proper inflation, and Alignment kept in spec (or at least no obvious alignment-caused wear)

Many treadwear warranties exclude certain uses:

Commercial use, aggressive/off-road use, track use, towing-heavy duty cycles (varies by tire)

Staggered tire setups (different front/rear sizes) often have limited or no mileage warranty.

3) Road hazard coverage (often separate)

• Punctures, nails, pothole impacts, and sidewall damage are usually NOT covered by the standard manufacturer warranty
  
• Some retailers sell road hazard protection or include it with purchase (this is typically where you’d get coverage for repair/replace due to damage)
  

What you should do (to protect warranty eligibility)

• Keep receipts and install paperwork
  
• Rotate on schedule and keep records
  
• Check and maintain tire pressure
  
• Address alignment issues early if uneven wear appears
  

Takeaway: Defect warranties cover manufacturing problems. Treadwear warranties cover wearing out “too soon,” usually as a prorated credit—and both can be denied if the tire was damaged, neglected, or worn unevenly due to alignment/pressure/rotation issues.